**LED Electronic Light Box Simple Production Tutorial (Part 1)**
1. **Production**: Use acrylic plates, plastic boards, or other insulating materials. Most commonly, black 2.5mm double-layer aluminum composite panels are used. The text to be displayed is first engraved using a single-sided adhesive paper, then attached to the cut-size aluminum-plastic panel. Holes are drilled using an electric drill or engraving machine. The spacing between holes should match the size of the letters, typically 10-15 mm apart. The hole diameter should be around 5 mm and not too large. Using F5 spotlights is better than 15 mm. If using 546 elliptical lamps, the spacing can be adjusted between 20-10 mm, with closer spacing being better for even lighting.
2. **Series Connection**: Connect the LEDs in a series by soldering them (+/-, +/-, ..., +/-). Mark the positive end as A+ and the negative as K-. The LED legs must be soldered with tin, or they can be screwed together and then soldered. Always make sure to solder. The LED legs are silver-plated iron, which can rust quickly if exposed to moisture, causing potential issues with the light box and future after-sales service. Although many people now use pre-connected LED strings to save time, each row should not exceed 20 LEDs, making soldering unavoidable.
3. **Grouping (Stringing)**: Based on the maximum number of LEDs that can be connected in series according to the table provided, do not exceed 120 red LEDs. The reason is simple: the controller outputs about 210V DC, and each red LED requires approximately 2V. If too many LEDs are connected, the voltage will drop below what is needed, causing the lights to dim or not light at all.
Note: Avoid using “*†in the table. If the number of LEDs approaches or exceeds the limit marked with “*â€, the circuit may become unstable. It’s better to divide into two or more parallel circuits.
4. **Series Resistance**: Based on the table, connect an appropriate number of resistors in each LED string. Resistors have no polarity and can be placed anywhere between two LED tubes. This helps save time and wires when connecting.
Note: Due to different batches and models, the exact resistance value depends on the operating current. The values given here are for reference only.
The ideal current for each LED branch is 19mA ± 1mA, with a resistor of 1kΩ/2W. For example, five 1kΩ/2W resistors can be connected in series.
5. **Connecting the Controller**: Connect the positive ends of each LED string to the red line (positive) of the controller, and the negative ends to the green line (negative). The three yellow lines are for side lights and should be connected to the negative ends of the side light groups. The positive ends of the side lights should be soldered together with the main word’s positive line. Most controllers have a straight bright output. If constant lighting is not required, cut or glue the normally bright output to prevent damage from disconnection.
6. **Testing**: After proper connection, the lights should turn on when powered. Measure the current using a multimeter in DC mode. Check the voltage across one of the 1kΩ/2W resistors; it should be around 15–20V (preferably less than 18V). If it exceeds 20V, add another resistor and measure again until it’s normal.
To make testing easier, set the controller to debugging mode with a long delay interval. This allows longer illumination periods, making voltage measurement more accurate.
7. **Maintenance**: If the lights are not working, use a multimeter in DC 250V mode. Touch the black lead to the green line and the red lead to the red line. If the reading fluctuates or shows 200–220V, the controller is fine. If the black lead doesn’t move, check the voltage across each LED. A large difference or no voltage indicates a damaged LED, which should be replaced.
8. **Assembling the Light Box**: This method is cost-effective and high-quality. Although aluminum profiles look nice, they are expensive, so I’ve chosen a simpler approach. Materials include 2x2 mm wood keels and 2x2 mm aluminum angles (90°). These are commonly available in hardware stores. The specific assembly process is straightforward and does not require detailed explanation.
9. **Notes**: Many customers ask why green and blue LEDs often break. Most of the time, it's due to inexperienced welding—poor soldering or excessive heat. This damages the LEDs. Improve your welding technique and speed. Also, static electricity is a common issue. Green and blue LEDs are sensitive to static. Wear an anti-static wristband or use an anti-static soldering iron. Another factor could be low-quality LEDs. Always choose components from reputable manufacturers.
**LED Electronic Light Box Simple Production Tutorial (Part 2)**
**Tools Needed**: Electric drill, needle-nose pliers, soldering iron, multimeter, wallpaper knife, hook knife, steel ruler, small scissors, small hammer, hot glue gun.
**Materials Needed**: LED controller, organic board or industrial plastic board, single-sided aluminum-plastic board, LEDs, 4W resistors (1k–2kΩ), hot glue sticks, solder, wires, wooden strips, small nails, hinges, screws.
1. First, use wooden strips to build a frame measuring 80cm wide, 40cm tall, and 5cm thick.
2. On a flat workbench, cut a piece of 80cm x 40cm organic board using a hook knife and steel ruler.
This guide provides a clear, step-by-step approach to building an LED light box. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced maker, following these instructions ensures a safe and efficient production process.
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